The drive between cities is littered in checkpoints and encroaching settlements, suffocating all life around them. Sometimes in the spring though, you get a glimpse of beauty. On the meandering roads from Ramallah to Nablus, the red flowers of Palestine bloom, a reminder that from the blood of the martyrs lies a promise of revolution. At Jacob’s Well, a site that has seen many martyrs, the cats guard the entrance. The last priest of the church, an artist, tenderly tends to the plants, washes every door and floor, and carves mosaics of his story against the walls. We were his first visitors since October, but still he continues his day as usual, taking out flakes of gold to make his holy paintings, depictions of a Palestinian Jesus in the heart of a well in Nablus.